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New owner, 1979 382 "Island girl"

I second Warren.
I doubt anyone used it for Pole controls. That looks more like what is in my Lifesling for hoisting of person overboard. And using it would probably create more hassle in that situation.

I don't think I have any other tackle like that on Sonata. Other than perhaps the Cunningham setup.
 
The boom vang is a double block setup, and goes to a winch on the right side of the boom, and it works well. I'll toss that spare block and line back under the helm seat, maybe I'll find a use for it sometime. I also found a bosun's chair today, under some fenders in the port cockpit locker. So many places to hide stuff, I'm still uncovering it!
To use a bosun's, would I use the main halyard for that?
 
That block might have been for a bosun chair(for someone to pull themself up), but having the snap shackles would be a really bad idea for that. And it might not be enough purchase.

You can use any halyard for a bosun's chair that gets you where you need to be. Preferably 2 halyards, one to lift, and another as a safety.
 
Well I dodged a bullet there. Was down under the binnacle feeding the raymarine st60 wiring out a hole I drilled, and inspected the steering pullies, and something didn't look right, one of the bronze pulley axles was halfway out, it was missing one of it's split pins. Crisis averted I think.
Got the traveller done, decided to go with colour correct lines.
 

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Yes, i think edson sells replacement axels and maybe new bushings to press into the sheave.
Edson seems to have moved away from bronze for most things. The new sheaves are aluminum. I think bronze is better.
I would remove the whole assembly for inspection. The plate was made from steel, and most are rusty and compromised by now. Its a common failure to have the plate bend and break. The new part is thick aluminum and should last forever.
 
i consider Bronze superior for most boat purposes. But it seems to have gone out of favor. On the other hand, the switch to stainless axles made sense to me.
 
Yeah, I think I prefer bronze. SS is cheaper, and I think stronger, but brittle. SS will break, and bronze will bend a bit first. And bronze won't rust.

The sprocket in the pedestal is Bronze. The knurling for the break is worn smooth on mine, and the replacement is stainless. And expensive. Not sure what it would cost for a machine shop to knurl my old part.
 
I'll admit, the whole pulley plate and pullies look really nice, after a new split pin was installed of course. Fresh water is much more time friendly on old yachts for sure. I do need to pull the top of the steering binnacle apart and inspect it, especially after seeing this near catastrophe.

If you zoom in on the last pic of the traveller setup you can see the S bends I had to weld in to make the car clear the add on binnacle.

Dave.
 
Back in Michigan working on Island Girl for two days. Then have to drive to a race car test at Mid Ohio sports car course for two more days. Not much rest this month.
I finally got the two ST60 Raymarine displays powered up. But I really don't know if they work. Need to get a helper to blow on the little water wheel for the speed display. The depth, see the pic, should I see some sort of distance measurement out of the water? And, what is the usual, and preferred way to set the depth, from the surface, distance under the keel, or?
 

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I would set depth from the bottom of the Keel. Either 5' or if you have the deeper, 6' below the waterline.
I also think the boat will need to be in the water to read depth. Transducers need to be surrounded by fluid.
 
I am very adamant about this. Depth is ALWAYS the depth of the water, and NEVER the depth below the keel. I don't know how that Idea started, but it is a very bad one. The instrument has an offset adjustment specifically so that you can set the depth to the depth of water, use it.

Consider, you find a nice place to anchor, in about 10 feet of water, which reads 5' below the keel. You put out 3:1 scope, which is recommended for a modern anchor in good conditions, that would be 15' based on your depth sounder. But that measurement is really to your bow roller! Depth in this case is 17', not 5 feet! You just put out 15' of scope in 17' of depth! (depth of water plus distance to bow roller).

So, to anchor, you need to add the depth from the depth sounder, add the depth of the keel, and then add 2 feet, and then multiply by your intended scope. What a PITA, and at a time that is stressful for many at times. Most certainly, setting the depth to the depth under the keel doesn't make any math easier, and doesn't allow you to forget the depth of the keel. All is does is make your boat different from what that instrument is supposed to read and makes it confusing for anyone that has ever piloted any other boat.

Do I think this would actually happen while anchoring? Probably not. But it is far more ridiculous to think knowing your draft is 5', that you might not know that the depth sounder should always read more than 5 feet. If you can't figure that out, then 100%, you are going to make the former mistake while anchoring.

Want another reason? Navionics updates charts based on depth readings from users, automatically in some cases, from chart plotters or phone apps using Navionics charts. What a mess if some of those people use depth under keel without thinking about the consequences.

And if for no other reason, because practically every other boat reads depth of water, and because that is what the instrument is supposed to read, don't confuse experienced crew by being different.

The sounder will not work out of the water. Which is unfortunate because you can't change it while in the water.

The race car thing sounds fun. What is going on?
 
Warren, you make excellent points, and I didn't know I couldn't change it once the boat is in the water, so I will change it to water depth next time I am up there, boat is still in the yard until the end of the month.
I am, aside from having a composites and engineering business, work for a small race team, crew chief on a USF2000 car. At a two day test at Mid Ohio now after delivering carbon fiber military parts to a customer, I went to the Morgan to get a couple of days of work in between.
 
What I meant is that you can't change the transducer for a new one if it is defective while the boat is in the water. You can set the offset for depth below keel or depth of water whenever you like.
The car sounds fun! As crew chief, do you get to drive a few laps?
 
Ahh, I understand! Big column of water comes in if you try to change it, yes.
If my car finishes on the podium, 1, 2 or 3rd, the driver stays there for the awards etc, so I drive it back to the truck. Often out on the track. Fun little cars.
 
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